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Athletes and celebrities from Lebron James to Michael B. Jordan are famous fans of 360 waves. This clean and classic hairstyle gets its name from the shape the hair takes on, which is reminiscent of waves in the ocean or desert sands and goes all the way around the head, starting in a 360 degree pattern. It's predominantly worn by Black men with natural textured hair and isn’t limited to just 360 degrees—there are also 540 degree and 720 degree waves.
Waves comes naturally for certain hair textures, but with the right care and consistency, they can look even smoother. To help you tame your mane and get embrace the wave, we tapped Cosmo Prof Artistic Team Member and master barber Keon Washington to give us his best tips and tricks for achieving and maintaining waves.
For an optimal wave, you'll want to cut your hair down to a fairly short length—around 1 ½ inches. "This will typically require a clipper guard between sizes #1 and #2 or 1/8 and 1/4," says Washington. "Be sure to have hair cut with the grain and not against."
Then, you'll want to get familiar with your hair growth pattern and where your crown is located. You'll have to start brushing your hair every day to keep the waves intact, so make sure you're brushing in the right direction. Washington explains how it's done.
"Using a handheld mirror, stand backwards in front of another mirror to look at your head from behind," he says. "There may be an area or areas where you notice a spiral formation. This is your crown where your wave pattern will originate from. This will also be where you will begin your brushing from."
Once your hair is short enough and you understand your hair growth pattern, you can start styling.
Read more: Trendiest Hairstyles the Year You Were Born
On freshly washed hair, Washington suggests rubbing a dime-to-nickel sized amount of pomade or wax throughout the hair. Be careful to not overuse products, especially on the the first day, and remember a little can go a long way.
"I would use the bulk of the product on wash day after washing and conditioning," he says. If your waves need a little boost on day two or three, take a little more wax on your fingertips to whip your waves back into shape.
Read more: Best Pomade for Men
Getting the right brush is important for creating that effortless flowing wave pattern. Washington says boar bristle brushes are best for this type of style. Choose the brush that's best suit your hair type and texture. Soft bristle brushes are best for those with fine to medium hair, while hard bristle brushes are best for those with thick or coarse hair.
"Starting at the crown brush out to the perimeter of the hair, repeat this step around the entire head until you get back to where you began," says Washington. "Do this as often as you can and be sure to brush hair in a directional pattern (ex: front, front right, right, back right, or counterclockwise etc). The more you do this the better."
Read more: Best Hair Brush for Men
Once you've brushed your waves, finish with a dollop of mousse for added hold and shine. Use a durag or wave cap (satin or silk is best) to hold the hair down in place. "Do this every night before bed or upon waking up at the least," says Washington. He also suggests brushing throughout the day as much as you can to lock in the pattern.
Consistency is the foundation of the best waves. It requires daily maintenance to get your waves to regularly fall into place, so you'll want to dedicate a few minutes every morning and night to brushing and styling your hair.
"Repeat this process and daily routine over the course of a few weeks to achieve 360° waves and continue this regimen to maintain them," says Washington. "Combing hair periodically also helps to tighten up the wave pattern. Once you’ve mastered this process, you can then advance if you choose to change your pattern to a 540° or 720° one."
In between wash days when you want to refresh or add shine, Washington recommends using some oil and sheen. Use in moderation, depending on your hair type and texture. He also recommends washing your hair no more than two times per week. This allows the natural oil produced by the scalp to do its job of moisturizing the hair follicles and scalp more effectively.
Read more: Best Hair Products for Men
Waves can be achieved by anyone with the right hair texture for this particular style. With the right routine, you can train your hair to fall naturally into the perfect wave pattern.
"Depending on the person’s commitment to the process, this can take anywhere from a little over a week to a month to see real results," says Washington. "As long as you continue to follow your routine and visit your barber for upkeep, you can continue to see success with your waves."
Waves will last as long as you want them to with proper care and consistency. Pay attention to your hair, stay on top of your brushing routine, and you'll be rewarded with the perfect waves that would make P. Diddy proud.
Looking for the best products to help keep your waves in motion? These expert-approved picks are all you need to achieve and maintain flawless waves.
Cristina Montemayor is a freelance writer and journalist living in Austin, Texas, covering beauty, grooming, style, and culture. Her work has appeared in Very Good Light, BRIDES, Elite Daily, among others.
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